Arts & Entertainment
Friday,
May 6, 2005
Volume 33,
Issue 18
Fri, Nov 20, 2009
IN THE SGN
SECTION ONE
Front Page
MORE/ALL
SECTION ONE
STORIES
SECTION TW0
Arts & Entertainment
Out of Town |
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| Providence, Rhode Island | ||
| by Andrew Collins
With the passage of civil-union legislation in Connecticut, little Rhode Island is now surrounded by states that legally recognize the status of Gay couples. Given southern New Englands consistently progressive politics, its tempting to speculate when Rhode Island will pass similar legislation. In the meantime the state claims a singular queer distinction: The mayor of its capital city, Providence, is openly Gay. Voters elected David Cicilline to office in 2002, and he continues to enjoy tremendous support in this hip and liberal city famous for its superb restaurants, close-knit neighborhoods, fine universities, and friendly and open Gay scene. Many younger Gays and straights who work in or near Boston (an hour north) have begun moving to less expensive, laid-back Providence, a city of about 180,000 at the northern tip of scenic Narragansett Bay. Religious dissident Roger Williams, at odds with Bostons Puritans, established this settlement in 1636 as a shelter for persons distressed for conscience. Indeed, Providence has always welcomed persons who have been persecuted because of who they are and what they believe, so it makes perfect sense that the city ranks among the nations most welcoming of Gays and Lesbians. Like many industrial Northeastern cities, Providence struggled economically following World War II, but it began a dramatic rejuvenation in the 1980s and has continued to blossom ever since, uncovering and landscaping rivers that had been buried for decades, and restoring historic neighborhoods one building at a time. Providences status as a bastion of higher learning has also helped it to earn cachet among young entrepreneurs and arty types. The coolest (and also Gayest) section of town, College Hill, contains the picturesque campuses of two liberal institutions of higher learning, Brown University and Rhode Island School of Design (RISD). Additionally, the prestigious culinary and hospitality school, Johnson & Wales University, has two campuses in Providence. Many of the citys sightseeing highlights revolve around the colleges. At Brown, you can amble around the leafy campus, dominated by stunning Georgian, Greek Revival, Colonial, and contemporary buildings. Just down the hill, along historic Benefit Street, visit the renowned RISD Art Museum, which contains a vast survey of works spanning many centuries, from French Impressionism to Buddha renderings to Asian textiles and Japanese prints. Theres also a fine collection of 18th- and 19th-century American furniture and decorative arts. Other highlights along Benefit Street include the Old State House, which served as the original capitol during the late 18th century, and the imposing John Brown House, a lavishly decorated three-story Georgian mansion dating to 1786. A short drive from downtown, the Culinary Archives and Museum, at Johnson & Wales Harborside campus, is a must for foodies. The worlds largest such archive, the museum contains every imaginable bit of food minutiae, including an exhaustive and fascinating cookbook collection, more than 4,000 menus, and exhibits on how, when, and where myriad types of food became popular over time. With its many historic and scenic neighborhoods, Providence invites exploration on foot. Near Brown and RISD, youll find a clutch of funky cafes and boutiques along Thayer Street and several cheap and arty eateries along Wickenden Street. Downtown, be sure to stroll by the Rhode Island State House, a dramatic white-marble-domed structure that dates to the 1890s (tours are available on weekdays). Then saunter a short distance to the leviathan Providence Place Mall, a shoppers dream with more than 150 shops, plus a 16-screen multiplex movie theater and numerous restaurants. From here stroll along the lushly landscaped WaterPlace Park and Riverwalk, which runs alongside the Moshassuck and Woonasquatucket rivers. In summer, you can take a gondola ride along the river, and from May through early October, on about 20 evenings (generally Saturdays), Waterfire Providence dazzles spectators with more than 100 bonfires set in cauldrons on pylons along the rivers, the flames choreographed by artist and creator Barnaby Evans to the sounds of classical and evocative world-beat music. Few small cities can claim a more acclaimed yet affordable dining scene than Providence, which is also home to one of the nations best Little Italy neighborhoods, Federal Hill. Youll find block after block of great eateries, from upscale and stylish Mediterraneo, a loud and fun place that draws celebs and politicos, to inexpensive Geppettos, which is justly famous for its superb wood-fired pizzas, plus great salads, tender calamari, and a good selection of beer and wine. Its open late, with seating right on festive DePasquale Square, and the Wednesday night karaoke party is a big hit with both Gays and straights. Next door, grab dessert at Cafe Dolce Vita, a wonderful coffeehouse, pastry shop, and gelateria. On College Hill, perhaps the most romantic and Gay-popular dining option in town is Rue de LEspoir, where you can sup on sublime New American, Italian, and French fare - dishes like mustard-crusted New Zealand lamb chops with a pinot noir reduction and sour cherry-roasted almond relish. Its a fun spot for breakfast, too. Hemenways Seafood Grill & Oyster Bar is the place to go for fresh seafood. Nothing is pretentious or contrived about the food here - expect just fresh and simply prepared fish, plus a great oyster bar. Nearby Parkside Rotisserie and Bar is a terrific little neighborhood restaurant with an emphasis on pastas and rotisserie chicken, as well as some excellent seafood grills. Theres a nice selection of wines and beers, too. Right by Browns campus, try Andreas for excellent, artfully presented Greek food, or chic Kartabar, a posh new martini lounge and see-and-be-seen restaurant turning out tasty burgers, pastas, salads, and grills. Seven Stars Bakery serves delicious ginger biscuits, individual-size lemon cakes, and ham-and-cheese calzones, and it has a delightful garden patio thats great for sipping espresso. On Wickenden Street, the Gay-popular Coffee Exchange cafe occupies an attractive mansard-roof Victorian house and has some of the best people-watching around. Cable Car Cinema, a hit with both college students and film buffs, is known as much for its cheap and cheerful dining as for its art-film theater. Finally, for a memorable breakfast or lunch, dont miss Nicks, a tiny oasis of amazingly delicious cooking in the citys up-and-coming West Broadway section. A typically tantalizing treat is the roasted sea scallops wrapped in smoked bacon with apple, greens, and local goat cheese. Providence doesnt have a ton of Gay bars, but there are a few standouts, including the long-running Mirabar, a handsome bilevel club in the Jewelry District (mostly the domain of rowdy straight clubs). Its the definitive mens stand-and-model bar with a small dance floor and a cozier cocktail bar with a pool table upstairs. Devilles is one of the best Lesbian clubs in the Northeast, occupying an attractive space with a large dance floor, lots of nooks for sitting and talking, and a friendly staff. The citys largest and most happening Gay dance club on weekends, Pulse brings in some of the Northeasts top DJs. The Providence Eagle is a cruisy downtown bar popular with bears and butch guys who favor Levis and leather. Mega-Plex is New Englands most popular Gay bathhouse - because Boston has no such establishments, guys from Beantown often make the drive down here. Providences popularity has grown faster than its supply of hotel rooms, which sometimes results in very high rates; but some great new properties have opened recently, and more are on the way. A terrific find among the newer spots, Dolce Villa - which anchors Federal Hill - overlooks bustling DePasquale Square and has 14 sleek, super-cool suites bathed in white and containing fully equipped kitchens and comfy memory-foam beds. Also quite new, the elegant and luxurious Hotel Providence sits within easy walking distance of the hip restaurants and nightclubs of the Jewelry District. The moderately priced and centrally located Courtyard by Marriott has 216 large and airy rooms, many with unobstructed views of the State House, Providence Place Mall, and WaterPlace Park. Just 4 miles from downtown in nearby Cranston, the Gay-friendly Edgewood Manor is a grand early 1900s Greek Revival mansion with five beautifully crafted fireplaces and ornate architectural detailing. The 15 rooms and suites carry out the buildings lavish theme, with plush linens, Oriental rugs, four-poster beds, and high-style Victorian antiques. But for the most authentic slice of old-world opulence, stay at the meticulously restored Providence Biltmore. This stunning grande dame is worth visiting just to admire the elaborate lobby, with its soaring three-tiered atrium, vaulted gilt ceiling, and gurgling fountains. Its a hotel fit for a queen, in a city that has long given its Lesbian and Gay visitors the royal treatment. The Little Black Book Andreas (268 Thayer St., 401-331-7879). Cable Car Cinema (204 S. Main St., 401/272-3970). Cafe Dolce Vita (59 Depasquale Sq., 401-331-8240). Courtyard by Marriott (32 Exchange Terrace, 401-272-1191 or 888-887-7955, www.courtyard.com). Coffee Exchange (207 Wickenden St., 401/273-1198). Culinary Archives and Museum (315 Harborside Blvd., 401/598-2805). Devilles (150 Point St., 401/751-7166). Dolce Villa (134 Atwells Ave., 401-383-7031, www.dolcevillari.com). Edgewood Manor (232 Norwood Ave., 401-781-0099 or 800-882-3285, www.providence-lodging.com). Geppettos (57 DePasquale Sq., 401-270-3003). Hemenways Seafood Grill & Oyster Bar (1 Providence Washington Plaza, S. Main St., 401-351-8570). Hotel Providence (311 Westminster St., 401-861-8000 or 800-861-8990, www.thehotelprovidence.com). John Brown House (52 Power St., 401-331-8575). Kartabar (284 Thayer St., 401-331-8111). Mediterraneo (134 Atwells Ave., 401-331-7760). Mega-Plex (257 Allens Ave., 401-780-8769). Mirabar (35 Richmond St., 401-331-6761). Nicks (259 Broadway, 401-421-0286). Parkside Rotisserie and Bar (76 S. Main St., 401-331-0003). Providence Eagle (200 Union St., 401-421-1447). Providence Biltmore (Dorrance and Washington Sts., 401-421-0700 or 800-294-7709, www.providencebiltmore.com). Providence Place Mall (1 Providence Pl., 401-270-1000, www.providenceplace.com). Providence Warwick Convention and Visitors Bureau (401/274-1636 or 800/233-1636, www.pwcvb.com). Pulse (86 Crary St., 401-272-2133). RISD Art Museum (224 Benefit St., 401-454-6500). Rue de LEspoir (99 Hope St., 401-751-8890). Seven Stars Bakery (820 Hope St., 401-521-2200). Andrew Collins is the author of Fodors Gay Guide to the USA and nine additional travel guides, including Moon Handbooks Rhode Island. He can be reached care of this publication or at OutofTown@qsyndicate.com. |
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 SEX TALK Simon Sheppard |
 GENERAL GAYETY Leslie Robinson |
 NOT THINKING STRAIGHT Madelyn Arnold |
 LESBIAN NOTIONS Paula Martinac |
