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Thursday, Mar 11, 2010
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Florence: The cradle of Renaissance |
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| Florence: The cradle of Renaissance | |
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by Shaun Michael K -
Special to the SGN The moment I stepped off the train, I fell in love. Florence, Italy will do that to you. Like a sultry lover who continues to take your breath away each time you meet, the city is sexy, smart, and curvy in all the right places. It's almost as if you can hear the city whisper, "Can I buy you a drink?" Florence, known to Italians as Firenze, rests in the wine-savvy region of Tuscany. The sprawling Italian city lies on both sides of the Arno River in a basin between the Senese Clavey Hills. You couldn't ask for a more serene backdrop to your Gay travel, as Florence is sure to seduce you with the perfect mixture of art, history, and fashion. Most foreign travelers arrive at the Amerigo Vespucci Airport, a little more than three miles west of the city center, by major European carriers like Air France or Lufthansa. Catching a taxi from the airport to Santa Maria Novella, the main train station, is easy regardless of your arrival time. Although Florence is one of Italy's most populated cities - approximately 364,779 people call it home - you can get around by foot, taxi, or bus within minutes. Unlike southern Italy, many locals get around on a bicycle instead of the famous Vespa, so mind the bike lane when you are walking on the sidewalk. Because tourism drives the local economy you may find that on any given day the local population is in danger of being outnumbered by tourists from all over the world. You can find a hotel, hostel, or apartment for rent positioned on almost every street. Hotels in Europe are rated on a star system, the higher the star the nicer the establishment. Often times a budget hotel, with prices ranging from ¬30-¬50 a night, are advertised as a hostel. My friends and I find that these so-called hostels have a private bathroom in the room and are only considered a hostel because the room may contain up to four twin beds. It is easiest to book online, but not entirely necessary. Two out of the four times I've been to Florence I was able to procure a room without having a reservation within minutes. There is no need to fret if you do not parlo Italiano. Although the native tongue is fiorentino (a Tuscan dialect), I found most locals to have mastered what I like to call "survival English." You can get directions to your hotel, find the street leading to the main sites, or what is good on the menu, spoken in survival English with that oh-so-sexy Italian accent. WINING AND DINING Italy is known for its wine and cuisine. If it's food and drink you are after, Florence will not disappoint. Whether you want a sit-down meal in a local resorante or a quick snack in a café, the options are limitless. Food and wine are staples of the local economy. Tuscany is one of the great wine-growing regions in the world. The Sangiovese grapes that grow in the Chianti region figure prominently in the Chianti Classico wines as well as the recently developed Supertruscan blends. Wine is offered by glass, or you may purchase a bottle, prices vary by label. If you are traveling on a budget, like most backpackers or college students, you can skip the labels and order up a carafe of vino di casa, which is red or white house wine, for a ¬2.50-¬5 price range. The Italian beers Nastro Azuro and Peroni are on most menus, but are usually gulped down at a pub. When ordering water you have the choice between fizzy, or fizzante, and still, or naturale. If you are the meat-and-potatoes type, you've come to the right place. The bistecca alla fiorentina, 600-gram Chianina beefsteak, can be found on almost every restaurant menu. Garnished with roasted potatoes and cooked rare over hot charcoal, the city's most famous main course will leave you fat and happy. Italians eat in courses, so remember not to spoil your dinner with too much of the Italian ice cream, otherwise known as gelato, found on almost every street corner. You are going to want to save room for the antipasti (appetizers), first course (pasta or rice dish), main course (meat or fish), and dessert. It is important to note that the table bread in Florence is saltless and served without dipping sauce or butter. Also, after each meal is customary to have café espresso, lemon cello, or grappa, designed to help you with digestion, as they are all diuretics. MUSEUMS IN THE CRADLE OF THE RENAISSANCE After such a divine dining experience, you will have a plethora of options to walk off those calories. Florence, often referred to as the "cradle of Renaissance," is bursting at the seams with monuments, churches, and buildings of great historical importance. The historical city center was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1982. The most-known site - and certainly the most visible - is the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, otherwise known as the Duomo. Over 600 years old, the dome atop the architectural jewel is still the largest dome built of brick and mortar, weighing 37,000 tons containing over 4 million bricks. In all, the impressive building took 170 years to complete. The façade is impressive and full of detail, while the Gothic interior is vast and gives an empty impression. The main portal of the cathedral is three huge bronze doors adorned with scenes from the life of the Madonna. The giant church sits next to Campanile tower and the Baptistery buildings. All three structures are a must-see if you visit Florence. You will find that immediate area around the Duomo bustling with life, night or day the cobble stone streets are packed with tour groups, street vendors, artists and the like. The Duomo acts as a navigational beacon. If lost, just make your way to the Duomo and start over. A short stroll from the Duomo is the Palazzo Vecchio, otherwise known as the town hall of Florence. The fortress-palace overlooks Piazza della Signoria, which is the heart and soul of the old city. The piazza has a copy of Michelangelo's David, Fountain of Neptune, and a good number of restaurants with terraces overlooking the picturesque square. Be sure to keep an eye on the time; it's easy to get lost in a daydream while sipping a cocktail and taking in the sights and sounds of one of Italy's most beautiful piazzas. Just down the street from the town hall is the world famous Uffizi. The art gallery sits inside a building which used to be a royal palace. The interior is absolutely stunning with its painted ceilings, enormous original art collection, and beautiful antiques lining the hallways - you feel as though you've been transported back in time. The Uffizi is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Florence, during peak summer months the line can be upwards of five hours. Just beyond the Uffizi is the Medieval Bridge, Ponte Vecchio, which means "old bridge." The bridge stretches across Arno River at its narrowest point and has shops built along it. Unlike all other bridges in Florence, the Ponte Vecchio was not destroyed by the Germans during their retreat in WWII. The bridge offers tourists beautiful views of both sides of the Arno River and is a staple of Florentine history and tourism. Once you've crossed the old bridge you can make your way up the hill to the Accademia Gallery which houses Michelangelo's David. You must purchase a ticket in order to view the famous statue, just like the Uffizi, lines may be an hours-long wait during peak tourist months. The view atop the hill is breathtaking; you can see the whole city, which such famous characters of history such as Leonardo da Vinci, Niccolo Machiavelli, Galileo Galilei, Dante Aligheri, Donatello, and Raphael have called home. Because Florence is considered to have a Mediterranean climate, the weather is almost always beautiful. On any given day blue skies with white fluffy clouds paint the most beautiful canvas as you look out over Firenza from the Accademia Gallery. The city is full of museums, and just like any other European metropolis, Florence often feels like a museum as a whole, anyway. After looking over fine art and antiquities at the more famous galleries, my friends and I found a horrifying yet interesting museum. The Florence Serial Killer Museum, located on Via Cavour, is just a couple minutes' walk from the Duomo. The hour-long tour walks you through history's most captivating murderers, from the first known vampire, to the more recent Ted Bundy and John Wayne Gacy. The rooms are adorned with wax figures of the killers and a video plays and you as you learn about the gruesome killers' lives and how they were caught - if they were caught. The visual is just as haunting as the audio. At ¬6 a ticket, the museum is a bargain. The museum is housed in Florence due to the city's fear of the "Monster of Florence," a homegrown serial killer who was never caught. SHOPPING IN FLORENCE Shopping in Florence can be broken down into two categories: high-end and street markets. It's no wonder Florence has so many high-end shopping establishments with such designers as Roberto Cavalli and Guccio Gucci calling it home. You will find the city streets lined with shops from all the top Italian labels as well as shops like Zara, Diesel, and the like. Buyer beware; things may be a bit on the pricey side because the dollar to Euro conversion is an equal. In other words, if a shirt from Diesel in New York is priced at $100, the ticket price in Florence will be ¬100, thus making the shirt cost at least $40-$50 more. If you aren't looking for the real thing, then you can buy a knockoff for ¬25 from the street vendors just steps away from the original store. In the historical city center you can find the San Lorenzo Market, where you can haggle the prices of handmade Italian leather products. From Piazza San Lorenzo to Via dell'Ariento, the streets are lined with shops and carts overflowing with leather products such as shoes, jackets, and hats. The locals consider it the most important market in the city. If you love house sale hunting and flea markets, then you will certainly enjoy the large Marcato Delle Pulci. The famous flea market is open every day of the week from 9 a.m.-7 p.m. and is located at Piazza dei Ciompi. You can find affordable treasures like prints, coins and jewelry, and objects from the past amongst the cluttered stalls. NIGHTLIFE Florence has a nightlife scene that has a rather calm feel to it. You will be delighted to know that there aren't too many public displays of drunkenness because the streets are regularly patrolled by the Polizia di Stato, which are municipal police officers, who enforce a noise ordinance. The city however, is alive and thriving at night. Most clubs, pubs, and discos, are found in the city center. No dress code is enforced and most of the larger discos do not require a door charge to enter. The main Piazzas, or town squares, feature live music under the stars. You can take a romantic walk with a love interest or have a cocktail at one of the many bars during happy hour, a rarity in Italy. If you find yourself in Piazza Duomo at night I highly recommend a stop at JJ Cathedral. The quant pub offers nightly specials that are not matched by any other bar or pub around the city. The two-story pub has a plasma screen TV hooked up to the cable network Sky, offers patrons a fee internet zone, and an outside terrace all in a unique atmosphere. The pub offers draught beer and has an impressive cocktail menu. JJ Cathedral has a small food menu of hamburgers, hot dogs, and pizza, which can be ordered around the clock. The pubs events and specials are thrilling, they offer a beer card where after ordering eight beers your next pint is free, on Monday nights after 10 you can get a shot and a pint for ¬5, they have a weekly ladies' night, a peanuts party where you walk on shells, or the endless summer, one liter of a mixed drink in a bucket for ¬20. Perhaps the most enticing offer for American clientele is the "Dollars Happy Hour." Every day from 6-10 p.m. you can pay in euros or dollars. JJ Cathedral isn't a straight or Gay bar; it is a neighborhood pub with an English-speaking staff that accepts business from everyone indiscriminately. GAY HOTSPOTS Florence does not have an area with a high concentration of Gay bars and clubs. What the city lacks in numbers it makes up for in fun. The few establishments that cater to the LGBT community are alive and well. One of my favorite things about the Gay community in Florence is that it really does have a "community" feel to it. Gay and Lesbian men and women mix in all of the venues, plus the Italians living in Florence are Gay-friendly so it isn't uncommon to find a few straight guys and gals amongst the throngs of rainbow party people. Perhaps the most notable Gay bar is YAG Bar, centrally located near San Croce Square and San Giuseppe Church. Tucked away down a tiny street the facade screams G-A-Y as it is covered in rainbow lights, stickers, and flags. The bar has a little something for everyone. Music videos and concerts of Gay icons are displayed on a maxiscreen throughout the night. The bar is for women and men and is open all year, seven nights a week. There is no cover charge and the first drink is not required. The bar has an additional lounge for smokers so that the dance floor and bar area remain smoke-free. The bar is also considered an internet point with free WIFI and you can purchase international rechargeable phone cards at the bar. YAG Bar tends to get crowded in waves and there aren't too many places to sit, however, the atmosphere is infectious and you will find yourself dancing the night away on the small dance floor in no time. The friendly staff can make almost any cocktail and the drinks are served in a glass, instead of the more common small plastic cup that seems to be the norm in other Italian bars and clubs. Drinks are moderately priced and you can pick up a free copy of a map showing you where all the Gay or Gay-friendly establishments are located. You will want to make YAG Bar an entry on your trip's itinerary. Like most European cities, Florence has a sauna for Gay men. Florence Baths, on Via Guelfa 93R, is a typical Gay sauna. Nothing special here, just a bar with adult videos playing and a maze of rooms in the back. One caution, though: you are not allowed to take an alcoholic beverage beyond the bar or you will be subject to a ¬50 fine. If you are looking for a cruise bar, for men and women, then you'll want to check out Crisco Club on Via San Egidio 43R. The interior is nice near the bar, with movies like The Rocky Horror Picture Show playing on a plasma screen TV above the bar. The further back you venture, the darker and somewhat stranger the interior becomes. The "dark room" is located in the basement, which is rather large with individual rooms in a winding maze of corridors leading to dead ends and hook-up spots. There is a ¬10 entrance fee to Crisco Club, which includes one drink. After that, cocktails are the regular ¬5-6, depending on what you order. Fabrik is the largest Gay dance club near Florence. The club is located 10 miles outside the city limits and is frequented by clientele from all over the Tuscan region. Fabrik offers themed nights which change often. A safe bet would be to ask the staff at YAG Bar what the party at Fabrik is going to be for that night. The music tends to switch from hip-hop to techno with very little pop or top-40 play. There is a ¬10 cover charge, and like Crisco Club, includes a drink ticket. The most popular Gay club in Florence is Tobasco, located in the small Piazza Santa Cecilia near Piazza della Signoria. Open since 1974, Tobasco was the first exclusively Gay club in the city. Friday nights are the most popular, with DJs spinning popular music from the last three decades as well as current dance and club hits. There is no charge at the door, however you are handed a "drink card" by the bouncer. The first drink is ¬10 with each drink after that being ¬6. After the card is filled out five times, you are directed to get a new card. You pay for all of the drinks on your card at the end of the night. Keep an eye on the card; should you lose it, you will be charged ¬50 when you leave. The bar offers a smoking lounge and a cocktail lounge separately. There is a coat and hat check, which runs you ¬2 and is annotated on your drink card. Tobasco has a dark room which you must enter through a small room that plays Gay porn DVDs. Oddly, the dark room is not for men only, women are permitted as well. Take heed of the sign above the entrance to the dark room, which reads "Beware of gypsies and pickpockets." The vibe of Tobasco is electrifying, and the club is open almost until the sun comes up. Whether you are traveling solo or in a group you are sure to have a good time at this Gay Florence staple. At the end of your Florence experience, if done right, you should feel fed, a little drunk, and in love. The city is quiet yet exuberant; Firenza has just the right amount of serenity mixed with fun. If there is one Italian city you don't want to miss, Florence is it. |
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