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Sept 23, 2005
SGN.org
Volume 33
Issue 38
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Monday, Dec 01, 2008
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OUT OF TOWN: Rocky Mountain Highs Jackson Hole and Telluride |
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| OUT OF TOWN: Rocky Mountain Highs Jackson Hole and Telluride | ||
| by Andrew Collins
- SGN Contributing Writer
Ski towns continue to grow in popularity with Gay and Lesbian travelers, who have long been drawn to such alpine resorts as Aspen, Whistler, and Stowe. Lately, it's the somewhat more remote but no less stunning communities of the western Rockies - such as hip Telluride, Colo., and rugged Jackson Hole, Wyo. - that have begun to attract plenty of attention. These two spectacularly beautiful Wild West towns have plenty going for them beyond fantastic winter sports. Consider the bounty of posh accommodations, cool restaurants, and offbeat shops and galleries, plus the wealth of engaging activities available during the warmer months, including mountain-biking, golf, fly-fishing, and outstanding cultural events and music festivals. Jackson Hole is a gateway to a pair of iconic national parks, Grand Teton and Yellowstone, and it also anchors the only county in conservative Wyoming that George W. Bush did not win in the 2004 election (all the more ironic, because it's where running mate Dick Cheney resides). Telluride sits nestled in a dramatic valley in the San Juan Mountains, and in late February 2006, the town will host the third-annual Telluride Gay Ski Week, an event that's continuing to raise the region's queer visibility. Here are the details on where to ski, stay, and eat in these two jewels of the West. Jackson Hole, Wyoming Just south of Grand Teton National Park, in one of the most remote and dramatically scenic patches of the American West, Jackson Hole feels equal parts down-home and cowboy chic. On the surface, it's less cutesy and overdeveloped than many upscale Rockies ski resorts, but you'll still find plenty of tony shops, inns, and restaurants. The ski area, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, actually lies 12 miles northwest of the bustling town of Jackson. The resort area is surrounded by Teton Village, an attractive cluster of resorts, restaurants, and condos. Skiers appreciate the resort's challenging and beautifully kept terrain. Half of the 111 trails are expert, and 40 percent of them intermediate. A dozen lifts serve the 2,500 acres of skiing, and the vertical drop of 4,139 is the greatest of any ski area in the nation. Among Teton Village accommodations, consider the cushy Snake River Lodge, an inviting 88-room hotel that's home to one of the region's top restaurants, GameFish (where you might sample port-marinated elk chops with apple cider sauce), as well as the magnificent Avanyu Spa. The lodge also rents out 46 adjacent condos. Another excellent option, Teton Village Lodge also lies at the base of the ski resort and consists of 80 upscale rental condos, many with full kitchens, gas fireplaces, and whirlpool tubs. No trip to Teton Village is complete without a visit to the Mangy Moose, a rollicking tavern and live-music club that draws both regionally and nationally known talents and serves up delicious buffalo burgers, pizzas, and barbecue ribs. This is one of the world's quintessential apres-ski hangouts. In the town of Jackson itself, you'll find a number of great restaurants, plus a good many spots to buy everything from high-end cowboy wear to top-of-the-line ski gear. Enjoy a casual meal and some top-notch lagers and stouts at Snake River Brewing. Rendezvous Bistro serves such delectable contemporary fare as smoked swordfish carpaccio and steak tartare. And set inside a vintage house downtown, the Blue Lion presents huge portions of tasty Western favorites, such as fresh-caught Idaho red trout and grilled elk tenderloin. Among downtown accommodations, the historic Wort Hotel exudes charm, with its imposing 1940s Tudor-style facade and richly furnished rooms, plus the convivial Silver Dollar Bar and Grill. Head up into the hills just west of town to reach one of the West's premier resorts, Amangani, an ultra-opulent mountaintop spread whose 40 palatial suites start at $700 nightly in season. Massive windows look out across Teton Pass from this elegant sandstone-and-redwood building. Even if you don't stay here, drop by for a meal at The Grill or cocktails at the zinc-top bar. From either Teton Village or the town of Jackson, it's a relatively short and easy drive north into Grand Teton National Park, and from there it's just about 45 miles up to the southern entrance of Yellowstone National Park. To reach Jackson, your best bet is to fly right into Jackson Hole Airport, which has service from several major airlines, including American, Delta, Northwest, and United. Otherwise, it's a long drive to Jackson from the nearest major cities (300 miles from Salt Lake, 520 miles from Denver). Telluride, Colorado Telluride is really two communities in one. There's the historic and extremely charming original town, which sits nestled in a deep gorge at the base of some of the finest ski terrain in the West. And then there's the more modern Mountain Village, which you can reach either by driving 8 miles west and then north of town or via a free gondola trip up the mountainside (the ride takes 13 minutes). Telluride ski season begins around Thanksgiving and runs through early April; the area consists of 84 trails, evenly balanced between advanced and intermediate runs, with a smaller but still considerable number of beginner slopes, and there's a vertical drop of some 3,500 feet, with the area's peak elevation at 12,260. Skiers can navigate the mountain via 16 lifts (more than half of them high-speed) and dine at some 55 ski-in/ski-out restaurants. This is truly a world-class facility. Telluride Gay Ski Week was begun in 2004 and has rapidly developed an enthusiastic following. In 2006 it runs from February 26 through March 5, and it coincides with the Telluride AIDS Benefit, which is the recipient of the week's proceeds. Festivities include a variety of parties, from an outdoor tubing shindig to an indoor pool-and-Jacuzzi romp. The week culminates on Oscar Night, so the final party includes a fabulous viewing of the Academy Awards. One thing downtown Telluride has plenty of is superb restaurants, the best of them helmed by local chef superstar, Jake Linzinmeir. His latest creation, which opened in December 2004, is Chair 8, in the Camel's Garden Hotel, at the base of Chairlift No. 8. In this retro-hip '70s-inspired space (complete with shag carpeting and disco-ball lighting), you might sample such avant-garde takes on American comfort fare as "PB&J" sandwiches (slathered with roasted-pecan butter, fig jelly, and foie gras), and lobster-and-Brie fondue. Other cool Linzinmeir restaurants include Excelsior Cafe for contemporary Italian cooking; and the Blue Point Grill, which serves to-die-for steaks, chops, and seafood (as well as cocktails in the adjacent, swanky Noir Bar). Downtown Telluride has a bunch of great accommodations, among them Camel's Garden Hotel, an intimate resort hotel at the base of one of the main chairlifts, with handsome modern rooms, Italian-marble bathrooms with oversized tubs, and a sumptuous full-service spa. For a more authentic slice of historic Telluride, book a room at the courtly New Sheridan Hotel, a redbrick 1890s property with 32 Victorian-inspired rooms, a first-rate steak restaurant, and one of the coolest bars in the area. Mountain Village lacks character but has astounding views and offers some fine accommodations, such as the Wyndham Peaks Resort, which is home to the Golden Door Spa and abounds with many other fine amenities. Or consider staying at the classy Mountain Lodge at Telluride, which comprises 86 well-outfitted rooms and suites as well as 10 larger log-and-stone cabins. To reach Telluride, you have a variety of options, although like Jackson, this is a fairly remote part of the country, so flying makes the most sense. Little Telluride Regional Airport has direct service on Great Lakes Airlines (affiliated with United) from Denver, and on America West Airlines from Phoenix, but this facility tends to get snowed in fairly often. Another good option is to fly into Montrose (a 75-minute drive), which has direct flights from Denver, Houston, Newark, Los Angeles, Dallas, and Chicago. As for driving, Telluride is 290 miles from Albuquerque, 360 miles from Denver, and 410 miles from Salt Lake City. Of course, both Jackson Hole and Telluride have much to offer, so if you can possibly find the time, consider spending half your vacation in one town, half in the other. It's a 550-mile drive between the two towns, but there are plenty of photo ops along the way. And it's hard to imagine a more stylish and exciting way to spend a week or two this winter than to vacation in both of these wonderful communities. Andrew Collins is the author of Fodor's Gay Guide to the USA and nine additional travel guides. He can be reached care of this publication or at OutofTown@qsyndicate.com. |
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