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Queer Eats: La Josie's offers heat and allyship on a cold December night

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Photo courtesy of La Josie's
Photo courtesy of La Josie's

Tucked between Summit and Belmont Avenues on E. Pike is La Josie's, the baby sibling of beloved E. Pine Mexican restaurant Fogón. Since it opened in July 2020, the venue, featuring an intersectional Pride flag and pink neon signage, has piqued my interest time and time again.

On a recent internet dive, I found the cantina listed on business review sites like EverOut, Intentionalist, and Seattle Refined as "LGBTQ-owned." I had previously heard that it was owned by a Mexican-American family. Both could certainly be true, but this info led me to finally make some happy hour plans and scope it out.

The family owners
Just after a four o'clock sunset, I sat down for a happy hour drink and a small bite at the well-decorated bar, under a Día de los Muertos mural by artist and activist Son Doung, aka Son of a Gun (@son_of_a_gun1969) on Instagram. The menu offered a plethora of food and drink options, so I asked a bright-eyed server, Alejandro, to give me the low-down.

"Depending on if you like spicy food, we have so many things. Pretty much, I say if you get food from [La Josie's], it's going to be very good," he said.

Owners Noel Cortez and Amparo Ambriz have their origins in Michoacán, Mexico. Their family's work at Fogón over the years has brought the piquant and earthy flavors of that agricultural state, known as the avocado capital of the world, directly to Seattle through Mexican comfort food dishes and cocktails.

Prior to the pandemic, Alejandro remembered, Fogón customers would often see long wait times due to its popularity and just-north-of-down-home feeling.

"Sometimes people just want to have a snack and a drink" though, Cortez told Capitol Hill Seattle blog last year upon La Josie's opening.

Though that was a major reason for opening this second venue, specializing in "small bites and big margaritas," Cortez also dedicated the cantina to his late nephew and business partner, José Ambriz, who passed away in 2019

Ambriz, known familiarly as "La Josie," helped establish and popularize Fogón alongside his uncle, with the two serving as co-owners. As it turns out, La Josie's is operated by Cortez and Amparo Ambriz, José's sister. The uncle-niece duo have been successful, even during the pandemic, due to their dedication, serving drinks that José himself once loved to craft.

Allyship
So it seems that "LGBTQ-owned" tags are not always entirely well informed. However the allyship demonstrated by this family-owned business is noteworthy.

Alejandro told me that the bar recently hosted drag with Queen Maritza Baez, and the event was a hit. They hope to continue hosting shows with more Latin queens if they can continue them safely.

Additionally, like Fogón, La Josie's is now a yearly participant in Dining Out for Life, a September campaign benefiting HIV/AIDS services across the country. As gold-level Seattle participants, the two venues each pledge 50% of their net sales to Lifelong on the day of the event each year.

In an article in the Seattle Times, Cortez noted that the event was so successful the first year at Fogón that they've just kept with it. "It's a good cause," he said.

From hosting events like these to displaying Pride flags year-round and working to keep their space — in person and on social media — as inclusive and safe as possible since their pandemic opening, La Josie's has proven to be Gay friendly, if not Gay owned. It emits a warm, familial vibe on Pike Street's nightlife scene and brings people together to celebrate in the memory of a dear community member.

And not to mention, the fare is thoroughly fantastic.

Photo courtesy of La Josie's  

The food and drink
On Alejandro's suggestion, I opted for spice. The camarones a la diabla brought me thick prawns bathed in the house's fiery "diabla" (devil) salsa, accompanied by a tongue-cooling combo of avocado slices, lime wedges, and rice.

Happy hour would not be complete without the presence of some chosen family. Together, a couple of friends and I tried a toothsome sample of Mexican favorites. The sopitos con pollo did not disappoint, with shredded spicy chicken floating atop crispy half-inch-thick masa boats and refried beans.

Alejandro eagerly offered us a Mexican hot sauce, called "El Yucateca," in three different colors to join the chicken. It seemed our chef was detail-oriented, decorating the dish with just enough sour cream and feta.

Though the ceviche was mouthwateringly fresh and light, it lacked the same punch as the other two dishes, especially when contrasted by the devilish camarones. On a cold December evening, their gustatory rhinitis—inducing heat was exactly what I needed.

To drink, we chose a habanero-infused tequila "Ultimate Margarita" and the tamarind margarita with mezcal (another Alejandro tip). I have been a twentysomething on Capitol Hill for a few years now and have yet to have such a flavorful happy hour experience.

In addition to their famed margaritas and tasty foods, La Josie's offers cycling seasonal drinks and house-infused tequilas, like hibiscus, strawberry, and watermelon, in the summertime.

Served with obvious smiles behind masks, the fare is most definitely made with love and care.

Located at 514 E. Pike St., La Josie's is open Monday through Wednesday 4—11 p.m., Thursdays and Fridays 4 p.m. to midnight, Saturdays 1 p.m. to midnight, and Sundays 1—11 p.m. They are fully open, with indoor and outdoor dining, takeout, and delivery via UberEats as well.