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Sin City: A gambling-free Vegas weekend is still a big deal

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Photo courtesy of Westgate Resorts
Photo courtesy of Westgate Resorts

I'm not gonna lie: Las Vegas has never held much appeal for me. The bright lights and big city are certainly a fun attraction, but a trip there also seemed like voluntary sensory overload, and my post-quarantine self has come to be a lot more chill. Plus, I'm no gambler.

So how did I end up there for a fun, fabulous weekend?

Photo courtesy of Westgate Resorts  

Westgate Las Vegas Resort and Casino (WestgateResorts.com) extended an invitation for a weekend visit this past January. To be properly transparent, the resort hosted the trip that allowed me to experience its amenities and entertainment, all just off the Strip. Like many resorts, if not all, in Las Vegas, Westgate offers layers of interest, including its massive casino, chef-driven food, on-site entertainment (Queer icon Barry Manilow is in residency here, weekends through June 11), and ultra-comfortable accommodations.

Since I arrived in the daytime, Las Vegas surprisingly didn't overwhelm me with flashing lights and slot machine noises everywhere, even though they could be found inside Harry Reid (formerly McCarran) International Airport, which was a fun if not expected sight for my virgin Vegas eyes.

The resort itself is minutes away from the main drag, adjacent to the Convention Center, but served a lovely blend of Vegas energy and relaxed ambiance. Its casino is front and center upon entering, but as you meander through the resort, its other features unfold nicely. They include Edge Steakhouse, the cabaret show The Magic of Jen Kramer, and SuperBook, a sports fan's wet dream, featuring a massive 220-by-18-foot 4K video wall of practically every sporting event happening at the moment. The indoor mall features an eclectic selection of shops and services.

I committed the first day, a Friday, to just exploring the resort. Prior to dinner, I caught Jen Kramer's show, and she delivered a quite charming performance of magic that still blew my mind. Magic isn't a big must-see for me, but her very homespun delivery mixed with glamtastic gowns really made the show a fun experience. Her magic tricks and illusions were mesmerizing, and, despite the smaller cabaret stage, she delivered a spectacle.

Photo courtesy of Westgate Resorts  

The upscale Edge Steakhouse reminded me a bit of Fort Worth's Reata's atmosphere. The elegant, rustic fusion, with its just-right mood lighting, really set the scene for an elevated dining experience. The cream of butternut squash was a revelation as it was poured over a frozen foie gras mousse to create a silky, flavorful bowl.

A steak in a steakhouse should be an obvious move, but I opted for the sea scallops with celery root, golden raisins, apple chutney, and a side of grilled asparagus, topped with bearnaise sauce and charred lemon. The scallops were buttery, and the mix of the sweet and bitter flavors of the root and chutney packed a tasteful punch.

For a more casual yet still gorgeous dining experience, Silk Road Asian Bistro fit the bill. An unfussy menu of noodles, rice dishes, and bento boxes offered a relaxed feel, particularly in the restaurant's peaceful, dark ambiance. My simple choice of pot stickers and shrimp-fried rice may not sound too exciting, but each item turned the freshness up a notch with subtle flavoring that offered both familiar and surprising tastes.

For major convenience, the resort has a shuttle to the Strip and is next to the monorail, so getting to and from the heart of the city was an easy task. For a daytime walkabout on Saturday, the shuttle dropped me off at Treasure Island, and I had at least two hours to kill before the next bus back.

On the Strip
Las Vegas is exactly as it seems in movies and television. So while there's no surprise at the grandeur of each hotel and neon sign along the road, it is something else to embrace them in person. The eye is never at rest as you take in the different buildings and their architecture, as well as all the people on the street — from showgirls looking for photo ops (40 bucks each? — no thanks) to a bevy of international travelers.

Plus, the fountains of the Bellagio are magical to watch live. The gondolas at the Venetian looked romantic, or at least as if they would offer a nice respite from walking. The Roman statues at Caesars Palace were simply magnificent.

I had anticipated walking into these iconic hotels to admire their interiors' architecture and features. As I said, I am not much of a gambler, so walking through casino after casino became a bit meh. But it's easy to enjoy the excitement of all the goings-on inside each location and worth checking them off the "Las Vegas famous hotels" list if you're kinda OCD like me.

Queens
For a Saturday night out, I had one destination: RuPaul's Drag Race Live! Showgirls? No thanks. Adele? Hell, she canceled that weekend. Give me the drag queens — especially Asia O'Hara, who hosted the show.

Since the cast rotates, this evening's show at the Flamingo, directed by RuPaul, featured performances by Naomi Smalls, Vanessa "Vanjie" Mateo, Yvie Oddly, and Derrick Barry. It was flat-out fun and funny. Each queen was performing at her highest level — whether dancing, lip-synching, or sashaying. For Drag Race superfans who know each queen's backstory, the show was even more exciting. Seeing Vanjie so polished and precise compared to her somewhat busted first appearance on Drag Race was astonishing. Naomi proved that she was the star she always thought she was, and Yvie's eccentricity was pure wacky performance art. With both single and group acts, the high energy was truly thrilling to see as well as hilarious AF. And the Werk Room (store) is a must for RPDR memorabilia.

Area 15
Before hitting the airport back to Dallas on Sunday afternoon, I squeezed in a morning visit to Area 15 (Area15.com), the immersive entertainment venue that houses Meow Wolf. Located just minutes from the Strip, it's described as "the world's first experiential entertainment complex that offers live events, monumental art installations, unique retail, groundbreaking technology, bars and eateries, and more." Think of a massive warehouse blacklit entirely inside, making for trippy visuals throughout the two-story complex.

Among its features are the Emporium (a bar/arcade), Oddwood (for cocktails), Dueling Axes (axe throwing), Lost Spirits Distillery, Wink World ("psychedelic art house meets carnival funhouse"), The Beast Food Hall by Todd English, and its main attraction and anchor, Meow Wolf (an "imaginative, immersive installation with interactive artwork, optical illusions, and hidden passages").

Where to begin with Meow Wolf? Its "Omega Mart" was everything you want from a supermarket, with bright lights and fully stocked shelves. A closer look at the products, though, shows something far away from the usual: Casual Tomato Milk, Whale Song deodorant, Oh Those cereal, and other cheeky takes on popular grocery items. Then step into the refrigerated section: an entirely new world of secret portals, sinister intentions, and interactive experiences that lie underneath the surface of the squeaky-clean market.

Walking through this was extraordinary. This modern take on an art exhibition truly flips the script with innovation, humor, and high-tech gadgetry. The experience is self-guided, so it can either be up to two hours or, if you move fast and without distraction, just shy of an hour. Either way, the place is beyond remarkable and an incredible respite from the casino side of Vegas.

Upstairs, Wink World is its own art experience mixed with a side of funhouse. After entering through a corridor of 3-D art in blacklight, I took a journey through six infinity mirror rooms that mixed music, light, sound, and movement into energetic ballets.

Before even entering Area 15, though, is its Art Island, with a magnificent display of sculptural, interactive art. You'll definitely pile up your Instagram with pics and selfies from Area 15 alone.

For this first-timer, Las Vegas was an impressive city, no doubt. Definitely more for the on-the-go type traveler who can handle a whole lot at once. But it's certainly a versatile place that's much more than its glitzy image. Its various hotels exhibit myriad personalities (European, New York, tropical, Ancient Rome), but perhaps the city's truest is that it brings all those into one setting for an exciting time — whether for a weekend or a whole week.