You cannot beat a weekend in Saugatuck-Douglas, the Midwest's only Gay resort area. The "art coast of Michigan," an area of rolling sand dunes and fruit farms along Lake Michigan, is full of fun things to do in the fall. The local peaches and apples are ripe (and a few blueberries may be found), and the weather is still good. Both Saugatuck and Douglas are very walkable.
The area beaches cannot be beat, since the lake is still warm — my favorite is the Wau-Ke-Na Preserve near Fennville, which you hike through a forest to get to. Glenn Beach and Pier Cove, as well as County Park, is excellent, as is the world-famous Oval Beach (look for the gang at the north end).
Or just hang out at the pool at the Dunes Resort in Douglas and enjoy a cocktail from the bar. The people-watching is nice, and they have cabanas to rent for shade lovers.
Saugatuck-Douglas has been a Queer-friendly destination since the late 1800s. It transformed from a lumber and fruit shipping port into an arts colony and tourist destination after that, when steam ships delivered tourists from Chicago. The Ox-Bow School of Art is still in existence today.
Unlike cookie-cutter, often bland, lookalike Midwest cities, you will find few chain stores or motels in this charming, unique area.
What to do
Rent a bike at In the Elements Rentals, across from the post office in downtown Saugatuck, and enjoy the lakeshore on the new Beach to Bayou Trail. They also rent beach gear, kayaks, and paddleboards.
Bring your swimsuit for a hike and swim at Saugatuck Dunes State Park. A half-mile hike through old-growth maple and hemlock forests takes you to a beautiful beach area, which is great for swimming.
Enjoy the exhibit "A Century of Progress: 100 Years of LGBTQ History" at the Saugatuck-Douglas History Center in Douglas, across the street from the Pride Celebration Garden, honoring Larry Gammons and Carl Jennings, the founders of the Dunes Resort. The center also features another great exhibit, "History Book: LBTQ Portraits" upstairs. Details can be found at www.mySDHistory.org/. Also: Don't miss the shipwreck museum and gardens behind the center.
Rent a kayak at Third Coast Paddling in Douglas and enjoy the Kalamazoo River and Wade's Bayou.
Take a walk or go for lunch in the very walkable downtown Douglas.
Hike to the top of Mt. Baldy.
Watch the sunset at Oval Beach. Hike the trails of the nearby Saugatuck Harbor Natural Area after that.
Work out at the Community Gym. Arrive by noon to get in, although it is open 24/7.
Go wine tasting at Fenn Valley Vineyards or Modales Wines, which is also close to a new cider distillery, Virtue Cider (details of the latter are at www.virtuecider.com/)
The Saugatuck Center for the Arts has plays as well as beautiful gardens and a farmers' market.
Where to stay
The Dunes Resort (333 Blue Star Highway in Douglas) is my favorite. It has great midweek specials, regular rooms, and cabins. You can enjoy the indoor and outdoor bars, dance the night away, or stop by for karaoke. Don't miss the Sunday tea dances and barbecues.
Upcoming events include the following:
End of Summer Blues Weekend:
August 25: Karaoke
August 26: DJ Keller Shaw, Perfect 10 Men
August 27: Pool DJ Keller Shaw, PM DJ Keller Shaw, Cabaret Dunes Divas
August 28: Pool DJ Keller Shaw, High Heel Tea Dance, Cabaret Dunes Divas
August 30: Cookout and Drag Queen Bingo of the summer, 5:30-8 p.m.
Labor Day Weekend:
September 1: Karaoke
September 2: DJ Keller, Perfect 10 Men, Cabaret Dunes Divas
September 3: Pool DJ, PM DJ Alaine Jackinsky, Cabaret Sutton Lee Seymour
September 4: Pool DJ, Early Tea DJ Keller Shaw, Main Tea DJ Ralphi Rosario, Cabaret Sutton Lee Seymour
September 5: Tea Dance DJ Keller Shaw
Lambda Car Club Weekend: September 15—18
Mr. Michigan Leather Weekend: September 23—25
Hoedown at the Dunes: September 30—October 2
Email [email protected] for more information or go to www.dunesresort.com/. Phone 269-857-1401.
The Campit Outdoor Resort south of Fennville at 118th Street is my other favorite and perfect for value travelers. Tent sites are available from just $10; a bunkhouse and cabins are also among the options. It has a nice pool, as well as a food truck and dance floor.
Special upcoming events include the following:
September 15-18: Fire and Arts Weekend
September 30—October 2: LeatherBear weekend
More event information can be found at www.campitresort.com.
The AmericInn by Wyndham just down the road from the Dunes is another option.
Where to eat
The What Not Inn in Fennville has a great Friday fish fry. The perch basket is also very good. Lots of "family" there.
The Pennyroyal Café and Provisions (which does take reservations) is the hottest new restaurant in the area. Food is prepared the old-fashioned way, with local ingredients that highlight the bounty of West Michigan farms.
The Farmhouse Deli has great salmon and sandwiches, and fresh juices. Try the Zinger with fresh carrot.
Isabel's Market and Eatery across from the Dunes has great coffee and Italian treats.
Grab a slice of tasty homemade pizza or a sandwich at the Lakeshore Party Store just north of the Dunes.
The Guardian Brewing Company has 22 beer taps and 14 wine taps at the Old Red Barn. Very LBGTQ friendly.
Have coffee at Uncommon Coffee Roasters Grounds in downtown Saugatuck. The LGBTQ-friendly spot roasts its own coffee and also has pressed juices.
For dessert, try a homemade chocolate chip cookie (five varieties) at Cookies on Call inside the Butler Pantry in Saugatuck.
Getting there and getting around
Amtrak serves nearby Holland as well as Kalamazoo. The Gerald Ford Grand Rapids Airport is 50 miles north, while Chicago is just 140 miles away. Most folks drive to Saugatuck; it's an easy trek from Chicago, Detroit, and Indianapolis.
While in the area, take the Interurban Transit Authority for just a $1.
Other helpful information
The Lake Vista Supervalu supermarket has everything you need. You will find it in Douglas.
Saugatuck.com has all the information you need to plan your trip, as well as a listing of the week's happenings. Stop by the Saugatuck-Douglas Welcome Center in Douglas can help you plan your day.
Michiganders have a distinct nasal twang. They also speak their own slang. A convenience store in Michigan is a "party store."
Cans have a 10-cent deposit.
There are lots of local microbrews, wines, and ciders to partake of. Or enjoy a Vernors, a ginger-ale type of beverage popular with Michiganders.
Ask someone where they live in Michigan and they will point to it on their hand (aka the Mitt).
Don't plan on turning left, as Michigan has its own unique way of handling a left turn.
The Commercial Record is the weekly Saugatuck-area paper. Between the Lines, OutPost, and Metra Magazine are the three LBTQ publications.
You won't run out of things to do in the art coast of Michigan. Plan a trip today!
Bill Malcolm is North America's only syndicated LGBTQ+ value travel columnist. He is a former resident of Royal Oak, Michigan, and has been coming to the Saugatuck-Douglas-Fennville area for 20 years. His column now appears in publications in Toronto, Seattle, Los Angeles, Washington, DC, Chicago, and other cities, as well as on the travel blog section of IGLTA.org.
