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Eastern Washington rodeo antics make for an intriguing Memorial Day weekend

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Photo by Nick Rapp
Photo by Nick Rapp

Ah, Memorial Day in Seattle — probably hovering around 60 degrees with a chance of rain (given this month's cool, rainy pattern). Luckily, the Cascades mark a geographic stopping point for the moisture, and the eastern half of our state offers plenty of sunny recreation this time of year. Thank God for rain shadows.

Photo by Nick Rapp  

Around 120 miles east of Seattle lies the state's hidden gem of oddball tourism: Soap Lake. If you're searching for a warm getaway with easy access to a quaint Memorial Day rodeo, look no further. This Grant County town, home to just over 1,500 people, serves as a perfect microcosm of Western American eccentricity. Shops and homes wrap around the southern tip of the namesake lake, a gorgeous two square miles with the most diverse known mineral content of any single body of water on the planet.

Soap Lake's waters draw a wide swath of visitors for swimming, kayaking, mud-bathing, and lakeside relaxation. The lakebed gradually slopes down toward the middle, so one can make it over a hundred feet in certain sections and only reach about hip level — perfect for wading. Its reflective expanse emphasizes the basalt beauty of the Columbia Basin, whose rolling hills and dramatic cliffs contrast with the mountainous terrain of Western Washington.

Photo by Nick Rapp  

An eclectic assortment of local businesses provide a lovely weekend's worth of poking around. On the food and drink front, visitors can eat and drink well before evening festivities. Dive bar Del-Red Pub boasts talkative locals, tabletop games, cheap drinks, and fried appetizers to boot. Cloudview Kitchen's part coffee shop, part vintage store, and some friendly Queer staff welcome visitors for an intriguing lunch stop; its standout menu features an incredible assortment of sandwiches and freshly baked goods. Mom's European Food and Deli simplifies customer choice with a small menu of pierogis and one sandwich option, and Mi Cocinita serves tasty Mexican eats.

As for shopping, Hecklebarney's Thrift Store features walls of curios and fun wardrobe choices.

Photo by Nick Rapp  

"The Last Stand Rodeo" takes place at 7 p.m. on May 27 and 28, and 5 p.m. on May 29 in Coulee City, just 30 minutes north of Soap Lake. The northern portion of Highway 17 cuts through understatedly beautiful canyon walls and along multiple lakes carved by the Missoula floods from the last ice age. The canyon's greenish hue is reminiscent of Icelandic geologic features, testament to the vast difference between the eastern and western portions of Washington. Upon arrival in Coulee City, one almost wonders if the drive was a dream.

The rodeo's event description describes Last Stand as "professional rodeo at [its] best," with "fast-paced, up-close action" that features "all the standard events of pro rodeo." These include "bareback riding, steer wrestling, saddle bronc riding, team roping, tie-down roping, girls' breakaway roping, barrel racing, and bull riding." Quite the list! A rodeo clown and barrel man tease the audience, offering levity between events of escalating danger. Community support for participants is palpable throughout. The fear, awe, horror, and intrigue of rodeo events defy definition; every act is high stakes.

At 2021's show, trick rider Haley Proctor (a returning special guest this year) wowed the crowd with a horse-riding feat that seemed implausible up until she proved it could be done. She began her performance with some laps of "Roman riding," standing atop two horses at once in a glamorous fuchsia getup. When the initial shock wore off, rodeo staff set up a literal ring of fire in the middle of the arena. Proctor rode a few laps before steering her horses through the ring in a leap of faith and with skill in equal parts.

Surprises abound at the rodeo; half the fun is not knowing what to expect. Though visitors can trust there will be a beer garden, hot dog stand, and ample bleacher seating to take it all in from any angle. Even if it's not your first rodeo, the intimate setting and unique features of the area make for a singular experience. Soap Lake and Coulee City offer much more than just respite from Seattle's monotonous spring weather.